Do you have a metal clay query or problem? Then metal clay instructor Nicola Callow is on hand to help, click here to ask her advice!

Nicola Callow is an Art clay silver senior instructor, as well as being a Beads & Beyond contributor and winner of the Jewellery Maker of the Year 2010 metal clay category. We think she is more than qualified to answer any of your problems and queries about this fascinating material!

Simply send your query to Nicola and check back soon as her response will be listed right here on the Beads & Beyond website.

Don’t miss the January issue of Beads & Beyond which includes 5 silver clay projects!

Your Questions

I am creating a bridal hair comb and want to set some swarovski crystals in to it - can this be done prior to firing? The crystals are non hot-fix flat backs.

Hi Shona

What a lovely project!

Unfortunately swarovski crystals wont take the heat needed to fire your metal clay.

Here are a few solutions you can use instead though:

1. Embed fine silver wire & twist them onto that
   
2. Set fine silver bezel cups into the clay & set flat backed crystals into them after firing
   
3. Make a suitable indent and glue them on after firing
   

Happy Making

Nicola x

Deb

I see a starter kits for sale which seem to have a lot of 'kit' in them and are very expensive.  Can you tell me the 'essentials' that someone starting out in PMC should get?  Is it wise to get a kit or will these have a lot of things I won't ever use?  Thanks

Hi Deb

Dont worry, you're not alone in wondering "What tools do I need?" so here are a few suggestions. Then if you look through the kits you can then see which offers the best value mix for you :)

PMC Suggested Tools - minimum needs, in order of use

• A roller- used for rolling out the clay
  
• A rolling surface - Non-stick as possible e.g. a glass board or polished tile
  
• Spacers or playing cards - for getting the depth of the clay evenAnti Stick Solution - (olive oil, badger balm etc) For lightly oiling surfaces to prevent clay sticking
  
• Cutting blade, scalpel - For getting straight edges and making your shapes.
  
• A small lidded pot - to put filings & tiny offcuts into so you can save them for making silver clay paste or slip
  
• Various grades of sanding pads - or get a 4 way nail filing block and strip the sides off.
  

FIRING METHODS

For Hob firing, stainless steel mesh with protection net.
Torch firing - Handheld torch and a firing brick (asbestos substitute not a household brick )
Kiln - If you can get access to a kiln then use it, the metal is normally denser and the results more consistant.
Stainless steel or brass brush - for brushing off the white post firing and leaving you lovely shiny silver.
Silver polish & Cloth - for getting the final buffed up shine.

Some Optional Extras:

1. For ring making - A sliding ring guage, A wooden ring mandrel, and ring papers (to stop  clay sticking to the mandrel).
   
2. For Better finishes - A small set of metal files for neatening edges quicker than sanding them down.
   
3. Long Tweezers - For holding / moving the pieces when firing
   
4. Liver of Sulpher - For antiquing or bringing out fine detail
   
5. Burnishers & ultra fine sanding pads - Post firing for a REAL shine!
   
6. Cutters & Shapers - Using pre-shaped cutters e.g. hearts will same time and give you more consistant shapes
   
7. Tiny drill bits - you can twist them in your fingers to drill through the unfired clay & make jump ring holes & hanging points.
   
8. Texture Mats/plates - Roll the clay out on these and you'll have fabulous patterns straight away!
   
9. Letter Stamp Set - For stamping words into unfired (rubber stamps) or fired clay (metal stamps).
   

Happy Shopping

nicola x

Debbie

I have heard that you can fire metal clay over a gas hob ? is this true & if so does it drip &  will it ruin the hob?

Hi Debbie

Yes you can fire metal clay on a gas hob and it doesn't drip or ruin the hob.

You can find instructions and pictures on my PMC Tips blog
http://http://pmctips.blogspot.com/2009/02/firing-on-gas-hob-ideally-silverclay.html

2 things worth noting:

For Safety make sure the piece is absolutely DRY - (escaping steam can cause exploding pieces) cover with a mesh to be safe.

Hob temperature is normally between 650 - 800 degrees Celsius..

As the temperature the item is fired at effects its strength, I'd avoid firing rings via hob (unless you use a fine silver ring liner to add strength).

Hope that helps

Nicola x

What is the best temperature and time to fire slow drying clay. I have done a ring but I unfurtnately dropped it after fireing in my kiln and it broke into peices.  Jackie

Hi Jackie

Providing there are no inclusions (such as glass or natural stones)then metal clay is strongest when fired as close to it's meltingtemperature as possible. The melting point is approx 960 degrees C sofiring at 900 degrees will give you good strong results without losingany pattern or texture.I fire rings for 2 hours but anything over an hour will still givestrong dense results.As fine silver is not as strong as sterling, a metal clay ring shouldideally be at least 1mm thick after firing.February's issue of Beads and Beyond has further info about the"scintering" process that occurs when metal clay is fired and therelative strength of the different versions of silver clay.

Nicola x

Helen Green

Hi Nicola, I thoroughly enjoyed your article 'colour me happy' it
was just what I was looking for. Can you tell me what is the
difference between Art Clay & Metal Clay.  I have already purchased 10g of Art Clay.  It seemed quite expensive so do I need the full 20g to make just one of those pendants or will 10g be enough?  I also purchased 10g of paste and 10g syringe.  Lastly, in another readers question you state sand paper & sanding pads.  I currently work with silver sheet and use 600 type sand paper.  Is the sand paper used for silver sheet the same as that used for metal clay?  Thanks

Hi Helen

I'm so glad you found my article useful - There's no difference
between Art Clay and Metal Clay. Art Clay is a brand and they
currently produce Art Clay Silver and Copper, they're called metal
clays because they are made using metal
With the flat flower design 10g should be enough but you can easily
scale or alter the pendant to accommodate the amount of clay you have
available e.g. do a jump ring bail instead of the roll over one.
The sand papers used for silver will be suitable for clay but you'll
need to keep them separate the clay dust clogs the paper for silver
use and paper that's been used on sterling can have bits of metal in
that will scratch the clay.
Hope that Helps

Nicola x

dc. (mrs gray)

Hi Nicola. Reading through january Bead&Beyond some projects use pmc3, some say metal clay, some say use silver metal clay. whot is the differance between them or are they all the same thing? If they are all different which is the best for a beginer to use to add to there other craft projects that i make?

Hi

Don't worry just buy whatever brand you prefer - the silver clays PMC
& Art Clay Silver both turn into fine silver when fired. Which you
choose often ends up as personal preference if you can try both ~ for
beginners I use Art Clay Silver Slow Dry as i feel it gives a bit more
working time.

Nicola x

Wendy Harriss

hi, i want to make a thumb ring for my sons 18th with maths and
scienc symbols on it , how long do I have between taking the pmc out of the packet to work on it before it becomes too dry?

Hi Wendy
That very much depends on the heat of the room, temperature of your
hands, type of clay and a lot of other variables. Albeit to say not
very long. A fine mist spray will help but I suggest practicing the
design in fimo soft first (so you can get the technique done quickly).
If the clay starts to dry out before the band is made then I often
flatten the piece out add a few drops of water to hydrate the clay and
start again.
Unfortunately with rings, they can crack if you don't have the clay at
a good consistency when you form them. There are some ring making tips
on my blog here:
http://pmctips.blogspot.com/2009/03/making-art-clay-silver-pmc-rings-i-make.html

Nicola x

Jan Howarth

Ive got a Starter Kit for Christmas, whats the best project for a beginner

Hi Jan

I'd suggest something simple like a flat texture pendant or one of the
excellent projects in the magazine. Any of the roll, texture, cut and
fire projects would make a great starting point!
Happy Making

Nicola x

Debbie

Hi Nicola, I always find if I try to polish my piece with my wire
brush that came with my kit, it scratches my piece. What am I doing
wrong? Many thanks

Hi Debbie

Quite often a new wire brush will scratch the pieces. You can minimise
this by adding washing up liquid to the bristles and brushing the
piece quite gently under running water. The liquid lubricates the
brush and helps minimise the scratching.
Alternatively if it's a steel brush buy a softer brass bristle brush -
silverclay.co.uk sell some extra soft ones too!

Nicola x